I planned my pilgrimage on the Luther Trail from 12.08.2013 to 16.08.2013. Thanks to the very helpful support of Mrs Susan Bach from the Luther Trail Society, I set the start in Lutherstadt Wittenberg and my destination in Köthen. Mrs Bach also gave me the tip to book the pilgrims’ accommodation in advance and sent me a list of pilgrims’ hostels. In the five days of my pilgrimage, I travelled from Wittenberg to Vockerode, then to Roßlau, to Aken and finally to Köthen.
My first day was dedicated solely to Wittenberg. The many historical sites made a huge impression on me. The castle church, the Kranach courtyards, the Luther House, which I also visited intensively, and the many art-historical buildings. They all have their own history and create a wonderful overall picture. The beautiful old town centre is fascinating and always worth a visit. I spent the night in the Glöcknerstift. Very rustic, but perfectly suited as a pilgrims’ hostel. I was given a very friendly welcome and familiarised with the conditions in the monastery. I even allowed myself to spend a few extra euros. It was simply worth it to me for so much hospitality, which we experience far too little these days.
On the 13th, I started with breakfast in a bakery at the market and then set off with a pannier and the excellent guide from your company. I had planned about 28 kilometres to Vockerode. Part of the route took me along the Elbe cycle path and then past beautiful fields, meadows and pastures. Large numbers of storks were busy looking for food. Cows grazed on lush meadows and looked at the cyclists and a few walkers and me in bewilderment, as if they wanted to ask where you were coming from and where you were going. It was a very pleasant run. The signposting was excellent in this section. Up to Coswig, the path was extremely beautiful.
This was also due to the Elbe and the surrounding countryside. I took the ferry across the Elbe and enjoyed the beautiful garden and park landscape of Wörlitz Park before travelling on to Vockerode, famous for its power station, which is currently being demolished. I found my accommodation at the Hempel guesthouse. A very nice family who are also very hospitable. I can only recommend it. Mrs Hempel made me something for dinner even though her guesthouse was closed. Super nice this family. Once again, a big thank you and my recommendation.
On the 14th, I travelled from Vockerode to Roßlau. After a hearty breakfast with the Hempel family, I started the day energised. Right on the Elbe embankment, under the A9 motorway, through the Elbe meadows to Stieglitzer Park. The Luisium was also on the way and was so beautifully situated. Shortly before Dessau was the 1.2 kilometre long avenue of lime trees. Also so magnificent. As I walked along it, my thoughts immediately turned to poetry. Where I live in Zwenkau, we also have 30 lime trees on the neighbouring property and lime trees do work all year round.
It was also easy to run through Dessau and then Beckerbruch Park. Just as there was plenty to see in Dessau. The route along the main road to Roßlau was a little arduous. I stayed at the Eurocamp in Roßlau. Very suitable for pilgrims. I was the only one in the camp. An old school serves as a camp, or rather a hostel.
I got up at 7am on the 15th. The longest part of the day was waiting for me. Planned 33 km. Roßlau, Zerbst, Steckby, Steutz to Aken. The first section of the route was beautiful again and well signposted. For kilometres alone through the forest. After passing the Spitzberg and the youth forest home, I took a short break and then carried on. I must have overlooked a sign somewhere and got lost. I suddenly found myself on the B184 again. To get back on the right track, I would have had to walk back 4 kilometres. Due to the length of the route, I changed my plans and ran via Jüdrichau. Then on towards Pakendorf, Bias, Leps in the direction of Steutz to Aken. There are also people who simply stop in their cars and ask me where I want to go and offer me a lift. Due to the length of the route, I was happy about this. If I had walked everything that day, my route would have been around 40 kilometres. There are so many friendly, helpful people out there. Thanks to these people.
I arrived in Aken very exhausted and looked for accommodation with the Zötzsche family. I was so lovingly welcomed by the Zötzsche family with “smoking socks” and “shoes full of water”. That was balm for the soul. Exhausted, I went to bed for an hour. I thought I wouldn’t make the last section to Köthen, I was so exhausted and my mood was pretty low. But I also loved this part of the day and was happy to have managed it, despite the misery of getting lost. The hospitality of the Zötzsche family did the rest to get my mood back on the right track. I would like to take this opportunity to say a special thank you to the Zötzsche family.
On 16 August, I set off on the last section after breakfast. The family atmosphere with the Zötzsche family was so good. These lovely thoughts carried me further along the beautiful Luther Trail. It went amazingly well, both the running and my mental state were excellent. There was no sign of the previous day’s exertion. Simply brilliant. The first part of the route was very beautiful.
I stayed a little longer in Reppichau. A very beautiful village with many similarities and references to its history and the connection to Luther. I travelled via Elsnigk, Osternienburg and Zehringen to Köthen. Here the route partly ran alongside the road. This cannot always be avoided on a tour like this. Once I arrived in Köthen, I took a look at St James’ Church and the castle. I sat down for an hour for coffee at an Italian restaurant, enjoyed my coffee and continued writing my travelogue. I still had some time before my train left. Then I took the train back.
Conclusion: A wonderful trip. In my opinion, the paths were very beautiful and well signposted. I felt very comfortable travelling alone. An experience for me and the realisation that you really should slow down. I felt like I had been travelling for months. Many thanks for the extensive help in planning and carrying out my pilgrimage to the Lutherweg Society and especially Mrs Bach. Thank you and see you again soon!
Picture: ©
Jürgen Röhr, Handwerkerhof 6, 04442 Zwenkau
/ 13.11.2013
