The third stage, the three, what does it mean? “All good things come in threes”, they say. If that were nothing. So we won’t lack for anything on this tour. So let’s be surprised by what and who we meet along the way.
Have confidence – open yourself to the path.
It takes us first to Calbe-West, which we reach with the “Burglandbahn” from Calbe-Ost, and from there to the Catholic church “St Norbertus”. We receive a very warm welcome at the church door from Father Denzel. Everything is decorated for a wedding, which will take place after our morning service. But first we learn about St Norbert of Xanten, founder of the Premonstratensian Order and Archbishop of Magdeburg, and his conversion experience. The priest tells us the legend of the Emmaus disciples’ encounter with the resurrected Jesus, whom they thought was a stranger and opened up to him. They recognised him through the words, symbols and gestures with which he turned to them.
Dagmar Schlegel rounds off the devotion with a reading from the Gospel of Luke – Luke 24.
Not far from St Norbert’s Church, we are invited to an interesting organ recital and learn from Mr Newiger about the eventful history of the small, now New Apostolic “Heilig-Geist-Kirche”. Originally, it was a place of worship for travelling salesmen (St. Nicholas patrocinium). For the longest time, it served as a hospital church – also for pilgrims…
As we leave the small church, the song “Go forth my heart and seek joy” rings in my ears. We head towards the ferry to glide across the Saale. There we use the waiting time to sing Dagmar’s new pilgrimage song. We learn that pilgrim friend Dr Hillmann has added a verse in which our Dagmar is honoured for her enthusiastic commitment to the success of the pilgrimage stages.
The weather means well with us all day, to say the least: pure sunshine, a little breeze now and then… Flowers and greenery everywhere…
On the other bank, Mr Dieter H. Steinmetz, retired local historian, welcomes us to the village of Gottesgnaden. He shows us the remains of the former huge monastery complex of the Premonstratensian Order and tells us about the legend of Norbert of Xanten, who brought about the construction of the monastery “Gratia Dei” (God’s Grace) on a hill east of the Saale, close to Calbe. It became a secondary seat of the Magdeburg archbishops (see the text sheet by D. H. Steinmetz, which he kindly gave us).
I am amazed and in awe, even a little melancholy, at the sight of the moss-covered remains of the wall. Awe at the achievements of the people who did the very hard work back then, who were artistically active, planned and served… Wistfulness, because what was created fell victim to wars and unrest, sculptures and valuable stone blocks were used (misappropriated) to build locks on the orders of King Frederick I… just history ? Unfortunately, we cannot dwell for very long on the events of many centuries. It should only be a suggestion, a reason to return here.
We continue our pilgrimage: Gottesgnaden – Tippelskirchen – Wispitz… on very different paths, fortunately only short stretches on busy roads. At this point in my report, I would like to express my thanks to our pilgrimage group leader Dagmar, who travelled and walked the route on 1 May in order to find acceptable, natural paths and resting places for us. One such resting place, for example, was in the village of Wispitz, on the village green, under a giant oak tree, and the endeavour to obtain permission to use the Saale dam via Wedlitz to Nienburg. Springtime nature all around: rapeseed fields, meadow flowers, lilac and hawthorn bushes, blue skies, bright sunshine, birdsong… At the beginning of May, such splendour, some of which is unfortunately already fading… Sun, shade – joy and sorrow, they are often so close together. On the embankment, in a shady spot, Dagmar tells us about the joys of the Altenburg meeting. Then she gave the floor to Veronika from our pilgrimage group. She told us about the funeral of the miracle-working abbess Assumpta Schenkl from Helfta Abbey near Eisleben, who died suddenly in April at the age of 84. The abbess, a Cistercian nun, had moved from Seligenthal to Helfta with six fellow sisters in 1999 in order to help rebuild the former monastery in the spirit of Isaiah 61:4. In remembrance and gratitude, we walked in silence to the bridge in Nienburg. This did us good, strengthened us, moved us and deepened our realisation of what we had experienced around Calbe.
We have now left the Saale dam and come to the bridge in the direction of Nienburg, where the Bode flows into the Saale. From there we walk to the monastery ruins and monastery church “St. Marien und St. Cyprian”, which can look back on a thousand years of building history (see leaflet). This traditional church is Protestant and is also used by the local Catholic parish.
Despite the hardships of the journey so far, I am captivated by the interior of the church and listen intently to the explanations of Mr Markert, who is supported by his lovely wife. He made us aware of many details of the church – such as the special echo, which we were also allowed to try out; he showed us two original paintings by Lukas Cranach the Younger from 1570 in the area of the chancel – a commission from the princely family. We were also impressed by the two archaeological finds, the so-called month column, which is now used as an Easter candlestick, and parts of the Romanesque decorative floor, which have now been laid in mosaic in the front part of the church. Among other things, the crown of King Solomon can be seen in the centre, surrounded by virtues, philosophers, animals and mythical creatures. Because of these two special features, the column and the floor remains, this church is part of the “Romanesque Road”, a cultural project in Saxony-Anhalt that has been in existence since 1993 and has more than 70 Romanesque monuments in 60 locations. It is also interesting to note the diverse uses of the monastery complex and the purpose of the former monastery church, e.g. as a court church.
A wealth of historical impressions, of the passage of time, of destruction, new buildings, changes through adaptation to current fashions, a treasure, a great experience. The sweat has dried in the meantime, the exertions are forgotten. I would never have thought that I would learn so many interesting things on this third stage. I am totally thrilled.
Now we meet the lovely Mrs Adler from the local heritage association, who will accompany us from Nienburg via Altenburg and Felsenkeller to Bernburg. Still quite a long distance. That’s why she has a small folding bike with her to get back quickly. We can ask her questions on the way and she explains the technical plant just outside Bernburg – the history of the mysterious Solvay works (see Google “Solvay works”). After the legendary cultural and historical experiences so far, the Solvay works seem spooky to me…
We have reached our destination: we are in Bernburg and are greeted by Father Barke in the inner courtyard of St Boniface’s parish with the ringing of bells. There he shows us the mural he created – St Christopher with the infant Jesus – which is very pale, but which he did not want to intensify, because we humans should seek Christ, i.e. open ourselves to the stranger, as in the Emmaus legend, in order to recognise Christ in him. Here this means endeavouring to see HIM, to look closely…
There is also an extension for youth work in the courtyard. The symbol of the parish, St Boniface, can be seen on the wall of the extension, no doubt also the work of Father Barke. Going into the church and then inside, he explains various rites and symbols of Catholic church life. This parish is also celebrating its centenary this year. The priest tells us how and in what way it is celebrated, honoured and thanked. Then we receive the pilgrim’s blessing and the church stamp from our pilgrim friend, Mr Obst.
Exhausted but happy, we head for the railway station in Bernburg – in the hope of being able to see Bernburg Castle, among other things, on the next leg of the journey.
We drive back to Leipzig via Dessau.
Thank you for this extensive stage, for the good journey, for the wonderful impressions, for the personal experiences, for the supportive group, for the care I received where it was needed.
Looking forward to the next stage, to seeing you again.
Picture: ©
Annemarie Bräuer – www.pilgern-in-mitteldeutschland.de
/02.05.2009
